Much of Kefalonia was destroyed by the 1953 earthquake. Most of the buildings that survived are at the north of the island, at Fiscardo in particular.

Lixouri, a short ferry ride from the main port of Argolstoli, is a pleasant place. There is a fascinating library-cum-museum in a 19th century house that survived the earthquake.

I enjoyed a short stay in Ayia Evfemia in 1990 - although I suspect that the village will have changed following the filming of Captain Corelli's Mandolin.

The Ionian is very popular with yachtspeople. One morning I was having breakfast at a cafe in Fiscardo. Suddenly I felt I was in a classroom. The yachties' leader was giving them all a loud and lengthy briefing - oblivious to the fact that quite a few non-yachties were also present.