Serifos

Trying to Return To Serifos

I visited Serifos early in 1986, probably in March. I remember very few signs of tourism, but that could have been because it was so early in the year. More recently I have read that Serifos has become a popular tourist destination, particulalry amongst weekending Athenians. I wanted to get back and find out how Serifos had changed for myself.

And so to 1998. I was trying to visit islands I had not visited at all, or had not visited for some time. Serifos was near the top of my list. It was a Saturday. My flight left Athens on Tuesday morning. Just time for a stopover in Serifos. The island would packed with week-ending Athenians, but in May I did not anticipate any accommodation shortage. And lots of visitors would mean a good choice of food - something that I did not associate with Serifos! So when Panayiotis the ticket seller on Sikinos said that on the Saturday morning the Pegasus was going to Piraeus on the Siphnos and Serifos route, and a Flying Dolphin was going to Naxos, I was spoilt for choice. I was about to buy my ticket for Serifos when a fisherman started chatting with Panayiotis. The conversation became somewhat heated, as conversations between Greeks so easily do. I got the gist of the conversation. The fisherman was telling Panayiotis that the Pegasus was not calling in at Sikinos that day. Panayiotis was indignant, his knowledge of the ferries was being challenged. He picked up his radio telephone. The conversation (translated) went something like this.

"Ticket seller at Sikinos calling Pegasus."

"Pegasus receiving you. How can we help you?"

"What time will you reach Sikinos today please?"

"We are not calling in at Sikinos today, chum."

A suitably chastened Panayiotis put the receiver down.

And I am still waiting to return to Serifos.